The Vertical City: Walking the Magic of Montmartre

If the Seine is the heart of Paris, Montmartre is its soul. Today, we put our walking shoes to the ultimate test. There’s a reason the characters in my adventure stories are always on the move—because the best discoveries happen when you’re willing to climb a few hundred (or maybe thousand?) stairs!

The Climb to the Clouds

We started at the bottom and worked our way up toward the Sacré-Cœur Basilica. While Montmartre has always been famous for its "staircase streets," the climax of John Wick: Chapter 4 recently immortalized the grueling 222 steps of the Rue Foyatier.

In the film, John Wick has to fight his way up these stairs to reach the Basilica by sunrise. It’s an iconic, exhausting sequence that perfectly captures the "verticality" of this neighborhood.

The Reality: These stairs run right alongside the Montmartre Funicular. While John Wick spent several intense cinematic minutes fighting his way to the top, we decided to be a bit more strategic—we took the funicular!

The Reward: At the top, you’re greeted by one of the most famous views in the world, looking directly at the stunning white domes of the Basilica.

Other Famous Montmartre Stairs

If you’re walking the area, you’ll likely cross paths with these other cinematic steps:

• Rue du Mont-Cenis: One of the longest staircases in the district, offering a quieter, more residential vibe.

• Rue de l'Abreuvoir: Often called the "prettiest street in Paris," with winding paths that lead past the famous Maison Rose.

• Place des Abbesses: Home to the deepest Metro station in Paris. If you skip the elevator here, you’re tackling a spiral of over 170 mural-decorated steps!

Art, Ivy, and Cobblestones

Moving away from the Basilica, we dove into the winding backstreets. We bypassed the main crowds at Place du Tertre (though the portrait artists are always a spectacle) to find the quieter corners:

• Le Consulat & Maison Rose: That iconic pink house that has inspired painters for over a century.

• The Vineyard: Yes, there is a hidden vineyard right in the middle of the city!

• The "Man Through the Wall": A brilliant sculpture based on a short story—a literal "character study" in the middle of a public square.

Sunset and "Emily"

We ended the day watching the sunset from the main viewpoint. It was spectacular. We grabbed a beverage, sat outside, and simply watched the world go by. The "City of Light" really earns its name when the sun goes down and the streetlamps flicker on.

I also spotted an ad for a language school that gave me a laugh: "Learn French better than Emily!"—a clever nod to the Emily in Paris series. As I struggle with my own intermediate French (at best), I can certainly appreciate the sentiment!

What’s the most "walkable" city you’ve ever visited?